Dog Parks: The "Good", The "Bad", The "Ugly"

Have you ever driven past a dog park and thought "wow, that looks like fun for my dog".  Dog parks can be fun but they can also be dangerous and unhealthy for your beloved furbabies.

I personally do not take my dog to the dog park.  I worry about the other dogs, but I also worry about the pet parents.  Some pet parents are oblivious to what their pets are doing so in the case of fights and bites they seem quite shocked and unprepared when something like that happens.  Most pet parents I have seen there treat their dog park like their local cafe and just let their kids "run" wild while they sit at the tables and sip their coffee.  This scares me !

I also do not take my clients dogs to the dog park.  Since they are under my care I would hate for something bad to happen.

This does not mean you shouldn't take your dog to a dog park.  If everyone follows the rules and pays attention, a dog park can be a fun experience for both you and your dog.

Below I have listed some great tips to follow before you decide to venture out to your nearest dog park:

Check out the dog park before your dog's first trip.
Are the dog park’s rules posted in a prominent spot? Do visitors follow them (pick up poop promptly, watch their dogs closely, don’t allow young children in the park, etc.)? Do the grounds look well-tended? Are there separate enclosures for small and large dogs?

Keep your dog current on all vaccinations.
No pet should be allowed to interact with other canines at the dog park without up-to-date immunizations and vaccinations. Worming, flea, and tick treatments are also prudent. A sick or parasite-infested dog can easily spread his condition to others during play.  Also, don't forget to get your dog vaccinated for Kennel Cough.  Your dog does not have to be in a kennel to get Kennel Cough.  This can be passed between dogs anywhere.  Most dog parks require proof of vaccination before being allowed a "sticker" and inside the dog park.

Train your dog first.
Basic training in voice commands and simple hand signals must precede the first trip to the dog park. A dog should come when called before he is turned loose among others of his kind.  Many pet owners use remote-controlled collars as added insurance for dog park excursions.

Leave toys, treats, and children out.
Balls, flying disks, and other dog biscuits can incite fighting.  Little kids may not be strong or savvy enough to steer clear of rough dog play. It's safer to reserve dog park trips for pets only, rather than trying to babysit at the same time.

Avoid peak dog park times.
Dogs grow rowdiest in herds. Visit dog parks during less crowded times, at least for your first trips. Weekdays are ideal, as dog parks are popular on weekends, holidays, and evenings.

Observe the dogs at the park as you arrive.
Are the dogs playing nicely? Is there a comfortable ratio of about two dogs for everyone one person? If even one dog appears to be acting aggressively or the park feels crowded, come back later.

Watch your dog vigilantly.
Although dog lovers tend to socialize at the park, you must keep an eye on your pet at all times for his and your safety.
 
Know the difference between dog play and fighting.
Not all growling, tumbling and nipping are outright aggression. Dogs may play rough. Still, you need to be able to spot trouble before it escalates into danger.  For safety's sake, young puppies don't belong at dog parks, they are vulnerable to larger, aggressive dogs. It's better to wait until puppies are several months old and have completed their series of shots before taking them to the dog park.

Don't jump into a dog fight.
The most affectionate dog can become fierce when instincts kick in during a fight. Many well-meaning dog lovers have suffered critical injuries, simply trying to break up dog fights.  Experienced dog trainers work in pairs, grabbing the hind legs of fighting dogs to separate them. A safer method for most is to blow bike horns or spray battling dogs with water misters.  If injuries occur, dog handlers must exchange names and phone numbers, in case follow-up is needed after medical attention is sought. Bite-and-run injuries should be reported.

And the most important tip, if you are not comfortable at the dog park, leave and go home.  It is not worth jeopardizing you or your dogs safety. 

Your dog is happy playing with you no matter where you are at ! 

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Coyotes and your pets

It is getting wild out there... and I mean wild ! I live in Northern Illinois and the coyote population here seems to have grown considerably. I hear awful stories almost every day from areas in Northern Illinois all the way into downtown Chicago of coyotes grabbing up someone's pet.

It also happened very close to home to me. My parents lost their miniature dachshund last year to a coyote and my mom is still heartbroken over it. They seem to be getting bolder and less afraid of us "humans".

It can be difficult to accept, but pets can be seen as a food source to coyotes and large dogs can be seen as a threat or possible mate.  Coyotes have taken pets from backyards, open spaces and even right off the leash.  Keep your pet current on vaccinations.  Reduce the risk to your pet by following these guidelines:

Cat Owners:

The only way to guarantee your cat's safety is to keep it indoors.  Outdoor cats also face potential death from cars, diseases, foxes, parasites, raccoons, dogs and birds of prey such as owls.
 




Dog Owners:

• Keep your dog on a short leash - avoid retractable leashes.
• Do not allow your dog to play or interact with a coyote.
• If possible, pick up your dog when coyotes are visible. 
• Avoid known or potential den sites and thick vegetation. 
• Like domestic dogs, coyotes will defend their territory and their young. 
• If you must leave your dog outside, secure it in a fully enclosed kennel.

Be Prepared:
If you have concerns about encountering a coyote, you may want to keep a deterrent handy.  Deterrents can include rocks, pots and pans, vinegar in a water gun, paintballs, air horns or a repellent spray.  Contact local authorities to ensure that you are using a legal method.

Do what you can to discourage a coyote's approach:

• Be as big and loud as possible. 
• Wave your arms, clap and throw objects at the coyote. 
• Shout in a loud and authoritative voice. 
• Do not run or turn your back on the coyote. 
• Face the coyote and back away slowly.

When are Coyotes most active?
Coyotes can be active at any time, day or night, but are especially active at dawn and dusk.  Conflicts with pets occur year-round and are more likely to occur during the breeding season (February and March).  Because young are born in the spring, food requirements of the nursing females and growing young remain high until late summer.  As people and their pets spend more time outdoors during this time, the possibility of a coyote encounter increases.

Just please be aware that coyotes have grown in population and are now moving into the suburban and city areas. 

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The Age Old Question - Why does my dog freak out during Thunderstorms and Fireworks?

Memorial weekend and 4th of July coming up.. how fun... right?  Well, I definitely love the warm weather, all the flowers, maybe some planting, and being outside.

However, these are also the weekends for those "dreaded" fireworks.  I don't mean that I don't like fireworks...I love them, however, my dog freaks out whenever there are fireworks around so I really can't enjoy them if I am all stressed out about him being stressed out.

If you have a dog that experiences this behavior then you know what I am talking about.  I wanted to understand what causes this behavior?  Why does he go through all this agony?

So, I did some reading and I do have some answers for you and some great tips on how to keep dog calm during these times.

First, we need to call it what it is.  It is a "Sound or Noise Phobia" experienced by up to 20% of all dogs. This phobia can be experienced by all types of sounds, not just thunderstorms and fireworks.  Some dogs have a fear of anything loud, microwave beeping, rustling bags, car horns, etc.   Some experience this so severely that pet parents often seek professional help.

This has to do with what is called "crossed signals".  Fears of loud or unexpected noises are triggered by what’s called the orienting response, the brain’s mechanism for being aware. When we or our dogs hear certain sounds, the brain instantly processes them to determine whether they might signal danger.

“We have to be able to process sensory input to stay alive and function in our world,” says veterinary neurologist Susan Wagner, who teaches at Ohio State University Veterinary College and is the co-author of “Through a Dog’s Ear: Using Sound to Improve the Health & Behavior of Your Canine Companion.” Wagner says that sensitivity to sound is instinctive to all dogs, but dogs that tend to be anxious are more likely to develop noise phobias.

Sometimes fear of certain sounds can be linked to a specific event: a particularly bad storm, a smoke detector going off or a fireworks display. In other dogs, the fear progresses over time, so a dog who’s afraid of storms gets worse each storm season.

Thunderstorm phobia is a complex fear encompassing sound, changes in barometric pressure, ionization and light, and the presence of wind and rain — making it one of the most difficult noise phobias to manage. With thunderstorm season in full swing going on right now in Illinois and other midwest states and of course Memorial Weekend and Independence Day rapidly approaching, dog owners, like me and you, that are looking for answers to their pets’ fears can try a number of ways to desensitize and counter-condition dogs to sounds that frighten them: sound and music CDs, aromatherapy, tight wraps, and in severe cases, medication.

Wagner has studied the calming effects of music on dogs with noise phobias. In one study, she and her partner, psychoacoustic expert Joshua Leeds of San Francisco, found that when classical music was simplified to have less instrumentation and tones were lowered and the tempo was dropped, dogs relaxed.

“All of that was done to get the brain waves and heart rate to drop,” Wagner says. “Dogs that listened to it became substantially calmer and even fell asleep.”

Music appears to affect behavior because sound is made of waves. When sound waves travel through the hearing nerve to the cerebral cortex, they influence brain waves.

“When brain waves, heart rate and breathing slow, we become calmer, and I believe that’s what’s happening with the dogs as well when they listen to the psychoacoustically produced calming music.”

Now that we all know what we are talking about, here are some other things you can do and what you should not do to keep your dog calm.

The "To Do" List:

1. Exercise your dog earlier in the day.  If he is tired, he will not be so anxious.  Take him on a long walk.  This will make both of you feel good !
2. If your dog is prone to panic, find a "safe place" for your dog inside your home.  Some dogs prefer their crate, allowing them to snuggle in and feel confined and safe, cover it to mute sounds and darken the area.  Close all doors to the bathroom where they could jump into the tub and possibly hurt themselves or get stuck behind the toilet.
3. Thundershirt - I use this on my dog Sebastian all the time.  It calms him down allowing him to relax. This item is also used for other types of anxiety as well, like separation anxiety.  Personally, my dog wears it all summer long.
4. Stay inside, close your windows and turn on the air conditioning, this keeps the fireworks at a mute level and when the air conditioning is on usually masks any fireworks sounds on top of the windows being closed.  If you are concerned about him like me I usually stay home also.
5. Play some music - music calms the savage soul.  As mentioned above... music comes to us in waves to the brain so put on your favorite CD and hang out out with your dog (with the windows closed, of course)
6. If worse comes to worse, contact your veterinarian, there are medications that your dog can take for  these anxiety attacks.

The "What NOT To Do List"

1. Do not take your dog to see the fireworks with you.  Leave them at home.  Most shelters and animal control facilities get over capacity due to dogs running away from you in fear.  If they get away from you, they could be lost forever.  PLEASE leave your dog at home.
2. Do not give your dog an "over abundance" of love and attention, baby talk, or treats, etc. during fireworks and thunderstorms.. treat it naturally.  If you change your behavior during this time and give him extra love, attention, treats etc., he will process that as "something is wrong".  You will be training him to expect this every single time.  Go about your business.. do the laundry, empty the dishwasher, etc., just do what you do.  If you are calm and natural then he will think of it as only another day.

Remember, your pet is part of your family.. if he is scared and anxious it is up to you to keep him safe! Enjoy the Holidays !

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The Great Debate - Regular Leash or Retractable Leash

Whenever I go to a inhome consult to meet with a new pet sitting client, I usually ask them what type of leash they use.  If they use a retractable leash I respectfully let the potential client know that we prefer to not use them and if they don't have a regular leash we will bring one with us.

Once I get that out there, I am always asked why don't we use retractable leashes.

This blog is about The Big Debate... should you use a regular leash or a retractable leash when walking your doggies.  I am going to spell out the differences and the problems that can come from using the retractable leash.

The Good:

• Retractable leashes are great when walking your dog in an unpopulated area (trails and parks).

• They are great to use on dogs that are already well trained on a regular leash.

• They can be a safe way for you to enjoy areas your dogs usually can't enjoy "off-leash". And some towns do have "leash" laws in place.

The Bad:

• If your dog is not trained to walk well on a regular leash, a retractable leash might encourage pulling and other "bad" behavior that will make it hard for you to control.

• Dropped retractable leashes can frighten your dog and cause them to run in fear very far and very fast with that leash trailing behind them.

• Retractable leashes can present a safety risk to dogs. Never attach a retractable leash to a prong or choke collar or a head halter. Make sure you call your dog back before he reaches the end of his retractable leash, otherwise he could flip himself when he gets to the end of the leash at a full run.

• These leashes can be dangerous to humans and have even caused amputations. Most retractable leashes now have "warning" labels on them.

• If you are walking your dog and another dog approaches, which may or may not be friendly, you could be too far way to keep your dog safe from a possible attack from the other dog.

• Your dog could approach a human being who does not "like" dogs and again you are too far way to get your dog away from that person.

• Retractable leashes are not recommended for dogs who react to noises, environments etc., that make them nervous.

The scariest part of a retractable leash if if you are walking in an area with heavy car traffic and your dog goes out full length and the leash gets "stuck" at the full length and you have a car coming your dog now could run out into oncoming traffic and you cannot pull him back in time.

Leashes should be used to keep your furbabies safe.  If you feel that a retractable will not keep your pet safe then please don't use one.

I personally prefer the standard 6 foot regular lead... it keeps my dog close to me, out of trouble and out of harms way.

If you do choose a retractable, make sure you train your dog to walk well with one and always keep your eyes open for any problems with the leash.  If it starts to break down, purchase a new one.

I hope that helps in your decision about whether a regular leash or a retractable leash is the right choice you and your beloved furbaby !!!

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Flea & Tick Control Treatments - Are they safe?

Now that we are moving into the warmer months everyone starts thinking about buying the flea and tick control products and using them on our pets.

Have you ever wondered if these products are safe for your pet?  I do, it is a pesticide so I thought I would do some research on what exactly these products do and are they actually safe.

You can find many brands of flea and tick products at supermarkets, pet supply stores, online retailers, and through your veterinarian. Before you use any of these products on your pets, it is critical to read their labels and consult with your veterinarian. They may contain ingredients that could harm pets and people.

At least 1,600 pet deaths related to spot on treatments with pyrethroids were reported to the EPA over the last five years, according to an analysis of EPA pesticide incident exposure data by the center. The EPA assigns risk levels to all pesticides for their potential dangers to humans and some flea and tick products contain chemicals, specifically permethrins, that are "likely to be carcinogenic to humans."

The center reported that pyrethroid spot-ons also account "for more than half of 'major' pesticide pet reactions reported to EPA over the last five years—that is, those incidents involving serious medical reactions such as brain damage, heart attacks, and violent seizures. In contrast, non-pyrethroid spot on treatments accounted for only about 6 percent of all major incidents."

The Center For Public Integrity's study said pyrethroid-based flea and tick treatments are approved for sale by the EPA, and they are readily available in powders, shampoos, dips, sprays, and other forms, "but they are also linked to thousands of reported pet poisonings, and they have stirred the ire of pet owners, the concern of veterinarians, and the attention of regulatory agencies."

So now that you know the risks you are probably wondering what can I do? What should I look for on the ingredient list?  The following is what you should look for when purchasing this type of product:

Besides pyrethroid-based products, ingredients to be wary of are organophosphate insecticides (OPs) and carbamates, both of which are found in various flea and tick products. The only OP currently found in flea and tick products in the U.S. is tetrachlorvinphos. This chemical is classified by the EPA as being "likely to be carcinogenic to humans." There are questions about the effects of long-term, cumulative exposures as well as combined exposures from the use of other products containing OPs and carbamates. Permethrin is another chemical that the EPA has classified as "likely to be carcinogenic to humans" if ingested orally.

If the ingredient list includes carbaryl or propoxur, the product contains a carbamate. According to the NRDC, the potential dangers posed by these products are greatest for children and pets. Propoxur is considered to be a "probable human carcinogen" by the EPA. As of September 2010, Carbaryl will no longer be permitted for use in new pet products. However, existing stock of flea/tick products containing carbaryl can still be sold. The HSUS recommends that pet products containing carbaryl should be disposed of and not used on pets.

Here is what you can do:

• Start with chemical-free methods and use chemical treatments only when necessary.

• Wash pet bedding (and your bedding, too, if your pet sleeps with you) in hot, soapy water.

• Vacuum often to remove flea eggs, and replace the vacuum bag frequently.

• Comb your pet daily with a fine-toothed flea comb. Dispose of any fleas you find.

• If needed, try products made with essential oils of lemongrass, cedarwood, peppermint, rosemary or thyme.

• If you are getting a new cat, keep it indoors so that fleas and ticks will not be a problem.

• If non-chemical methods haven't worked, look for lower risk products. Check the label to make sure the product does not contain tetrachlorvinphos or propoxur or any of the other high risk chemicals. Make sure the product is suitable for your pet and follow the instructions carefully. The safest options, according to NRDC, are pill-based flea treatments.

Visit NRDC's http://www.greenpaws.org for a comprehensive list of brand-name products with their chemical ingredients and more information about health risks from pesticides.

I hope this helps in your decision on what to do for your pets.  Whatever you decide to do, make sure you are keeping everyone in your family safe including your furbabies !!!

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Spring is here, however, be careful what you plant !

Well, Spring is almost here.  Yay !  However, as pet owners we must be very careful about what types of flowers we plant around our homes.

Yes, some plants can be very harmful to our beloved fur babies.  I found that out last year when I planted a flower that I liked then found out it is extremely harmful to pets.

This blog post is about flowers/plants that are harmful to our pets, so when you are thinking about what to plant this year, this information may be helpful on what to plant and what not to plant next time you are at your favorite nursery.

If you ever do have a pet that eats anything that is harmful, please contact the ASPCA National Animal Poison Control Center at 1 800 548-2423 or contact your veterinarian.

Below you will find a list of flowers that are harmful.  I have listed the most dangerous first so you can just completely avoid these when you go shopping.

Flowers and plants that cause death
Agapanthus
Azalea (in large amounts)
Cyclamen
Delphinium
Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
Foxglove
Lantana
Larkspur
Mistletoe
Oleander
Rhododendron
Sago Palms

Flowers and plants that cause organ damage
(Kidney, liver, stomach, heart, etc.)

Azalea (in small amounts)
Crocus
Foxglove
Juniper

Flowers and plants that cause rashes 
(Dermatitis)

Cactus
Chrysanthemums
Ficus
Poison Ivy
Poison Oak
Pothos Ivy (in small amounts)
Primerose
Schefflera
Sumac

Flowers and plants that cause upset stomachs

(Vomiting, diarrhea, and gas)

Amaryllis                                      
Aster

Baby's Breath (Gypsophila)

Boxwood

Cala Lily

Carnation

Chrysanthemums

Clematis

Cyclamen

Daffodil (Jonquil)

English Ivy

Freesia

Gladiolas

Holly

Hyacinth

Hydrangea

Kalanchoe

Peony

Morning Glory

Poinsettia

Pothos Ivy

Scheifflera

Tulip

I hope this list will help in your decision.  Happy Planting everyone !

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Food and Nutrition for Pets

It is so scary every time I hear on the news about another pet food or pet treat recall. What is going on? Because of all of this I decided to research natural pet foods for pets. There are a lot of them out there but you still have to be careful you may not know where the ingredients are coming from. Outside of the USA, companies are not scrutinized by the FDA so some of those ingredients may still be your pet’s food.

So, I started reading about natural pet foods and I finally chose one that I liked. It is made right here in the USA, it is a family company and they are top notch when it comes to choosing the ingredients and where those ingredients come from.

I am talking about Flint River Ranch 100% all natural holistic food. I like them so much I decided to become a distributor for them. If you would like to check them out go to: http://www.frrco.com/123411

If you want to search out what natural pet foods are good for your pet, there are quite a few good articles on the web about what to look for but I have listed below what you should look for when you are on your search.

-Lots of animal protein at the top of the ingredients list
-A named animal protein (beef, chicken, lamb and so on)
-An animal protein meal
-Whole vegetables, fruits, and grains.
-A “best by” date that’s at least six months away.

What you DON’T want to buy is:
-Meat by-products or poultry by-products.
-A generic fat source’
-Added sweeteners
-Artificial colors, flavors, or preservatives (i.e., BHA, BHT, ethoxyquin).

It really does matter what we feed our pets !

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